Greece: a Protective Shield

It’s rather sad and pathetic that Greece is being ‘hung out to dry’. Some of what I’ve read, and some of the reports I’ve seen, would seem to suggest that Greece is singularly responsible for all the ills of the EU, not just the euro. This is clearly nonsense, and totally unfair. It is true that I too have taken pot shots at the country – let’s face it, it’s pretty easy to do; but the fact is, Greece is being used by some as a protective shield.

It’s similar to the domino theory – the fear of creeping Communism, which haunted the US in the 50s and 60s; if one country goes, they’ll all go. Yes they will.

It appears that Greece is being made to suffer intolerable social deprivation, as an example to other, larger countries, which actually are even more problematic, and equally poor at managing their affairs. Whilst Greece is being torn apart, the authorities in these countries are supposedly taking belated, remedial action to put their houses in order – too little too late.

All the holiday destination countries of the Mediterranean: Greece, Italy, Spain, Portugal, Cyprus and [probably] Malta; have economies which are incomparable [and yes, incompatible, as my spell checker suggested] with the countries of the north. And, it is not just their economies: attitude is symptomatic of geographical location [mm…].

The reasons which once made these southern countries attractive places to escape to for a vacation – their different lifestyles as the tourist brochures would put it: let’s be honest, they were cheaper; should have made it obvious that economic convergence was not possible. It should be appreciated that it is very difficult for holiday destination countries, all over the world, to develop a balanced economy. The artificial economy created by the easy money of the tourist trade, produces exaggerated income discrepancies, as well as undesirable social consequences. But, we should be reminded, Greece coped adequately before it joined the EU.

However, it is not only the [other] Mediterranean countries Greece is shielding. Politically or economically, or perhaps both, the industrial nations are greatly exposed to the fall-out, and they are in serious jeopardy from contagion when Greece does default and leave the euro.

The idealistic naivety of the EU has wrought this crisis, and it has thus far been found to be naïve when trying to solve it – yes, it’s a systemic failure. [See earlier piece: The EU: a Systemic Failure?] Further, the intransigence of Germany, and its inability to appreciate the damage it is inflicting on the peripheral countries, is an astonishing illustration of misguided self-interest.

Now, the real danger is that there will be a total economic meltdown of the whole of the eurozone, and consequently, the EU. We’ve just had the first batch of stats, hence the preemptive message from the G8: “focus on growth”. And, although German exporters will be delighted by the fall in the value of the euro, their workforce may not be so happy. Quite where this will lead is almost impossible to predict…. “Dickens’ era poverty may look like luxury compared with what the future has in store……”
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An Image of a Remarkable Icon

This is another atmospheric photograph of a bridge. This one is in India, and it features Howrah Bridge, in Calcutta. I took the photo one humid afternoon in September 1992; I was on my way to the railway station.

The image has been scanned from Kodakchrome 64, and I’ve tinkered substantially with the picture. It has been cropped and zoomed, the light and contrast increased, and it has been sharpened; it appears much more interesting rendered in black and white, and perhaps, even older.

The bridge is remarkable – a colonial period icon in a city full of colonial period icons; it has a formidable permanence, and a functional, stark beauty. It was opened during WW2, in1943, to facilitate the war effort further east. This cantilever structure, eight lanes wide, replaced an earlier pontoon bridge which had inhibited traffic on the Hooghly River.

The photograph – taken looking west, toward Howrah; captures the afternoon traffic: the cars and taxis, buses and trucks, motorbikes and pedestrians. Fortunately, it also captures a tram – curiously, the service was discontinued in 1993.
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Sydney Harbour Bridge: an Eerie, Impressionistic Image

The details surrounding the occasion I took this photograph, are as hazy as the picture.

It may be difficult to believe, but it is a colour photo – it was scanned from Kodakchrome 64; it was taken very early one morning in June 1983, the first time I visited Australia.

The shot is so completely different from the stereotypical image of the iconic subject that on the few occasions I have shown it to people they are surprised when I tell them it is Sydney Harbour Bridge, and not the Forth Bridge or Newcastle upon Tyne.

I’m not going to speculate here about the climatic conditions which went to create the eerie atmosphere; I appreciate the unusual, impressionistic grey photo for what it is – the old cars on the old bridge, and the two pedestrians, waif-like, preserved for eternity, going who knows where on a dreary, autumn-like morning.

A Brash, Sunny Image From Manila

This is another sunny image. For the uninitiated, these are jeepneys, a form of transport, unique to the Philippines.

I took the photo in Manila; I’m fairly certain it was in 1989, and, for the photographers, I’m equally fairly certain I used a 135mm telephoto lens on an Olympus OM 1n camera; it’s scanned from Fuji RF film.

Jeepneys are an aberration – take an old jeep, modify it, extend it, add some fancy artwork, and turn it out on the road to earn its keep as a type of collective taxi-come-minibus. There was a time when they invariably featured a dodgy sound system and a chain-smoking, manic driver who didn’t seem to care much about anything – this may well still be the case, but officially at least, in most places, the music and the smoking have been banned.

Jeepneys run on fixed routes – you can see the lines of communication along the bottom of the windscreen; as long as you know where these places are, you know which jeepney to catch. The fares are relatively inexpensive, so if you get on the wrong one it’s not a disaster. The custom is to pass your fare to the driver, and this may involve the money being transferred through a multiplicity of pairs of hands, and if there is any change, this is delivered back in the same way.

Although jeepneys are lots of fun, they are unfortunately, flawed. The main problem is that they are simply not able to cope with the sheer number of passengers, and, simply putting more jeepneys on the road has meant that there are now, jeepney jams.

The two featured in the photo are both excellent examples – all silver and brash. “Playboy” seems to be such an appropriate motif – the passengers in the front seats, riding shot-gun, displaying a leisurely confidence on a bright sunny day. The frangipani trees give the photo an additional optimism and a natural fresh-feel, and the fact that I edited out the older vehicle on the left of the picture, eliminates any sense of it being worn-out or weary. Perhaps belatedly, I recognize something quite simple and glorious about it.
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An Image from an Unblemished, Blue Day

The sunlight streams from this photo – not a cloud in the sky, and the sea so blue, it’s hard to believe it’s true.
It’s a happy photo – the children playing on the ship whilst the work is being done.
I took it in Cebu City in the Philippines, on pier one, the old pier one before it was redeveloped, sometime in the late 80’s or the early 90’s – I can’t be more accurate than that. However, regardless of this, the picture has a timelessness about it – the old wooden ship, and the gangplank, crate and pallet in the foreground.

The ship was being unloaded of its cargo – watermelons. I don’t know where it had come from; at a guess, Leyte or Mindanao, but it doesn’t really matter. The man under the umbrella seems to be the task master; he’s probably bought the lot, and he’s diligently supervising the unloading. Aside from this, a more amusing detail is that some of the children are wearing halves of watermelons on their heads, which look rather like bicycle helmets, and they are obviously thoroughly enjoying themselves, in an uninhibited, carefree way.

But undoubtedly, at least for me, the star of the photo is the ship – as blue as the day. How old is she, where was she built and what became of her? Who were the crew and where did they come from – and what became of them? Would they be interested to know that now, their splendid vessel is preserved here for all to admire? Would they care? They probably dreaded every voyage they made on her, and breathed a huge sigh of relief whenever they made landfall – the seas can be fickle and the weather unpredictable in and around the islands. Interestingly, the ship is unmarked – she carries no name; her prow unblemished: an unblemished blue ship, on an unblemished blue day.
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Burma: The Forgotten Land; an Update, and More

I have consolidated here various pieces about Burma which were originally posted separately.

1 The Forgotten Land: an Update; a Personal View
2 Burma: Look to the Stars
3 Burma and the Philippines: Countries Apart
4 Burma: a Prophecy Fulfilled?
5 Burma: Remembering Palm Sunday
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The Forgotten Land: an Update; a Personal View [posted 11/8/10]

The following is the final paragraph is from my 'Unreliable Country Profile' - 'The Forgotten Land', from my book 'Territory of Uncertainty': I was trying, somewhat lamely, to invoke the sentiments of Orwell and Kipling.

"Undeniably, there is something about the strangeness of Myanmar which bewitches visitors and intrigues those who watch it from afar. Maybe it’s because the country is an enigma, totally unlike anywhere else, stranded in a time warp, ostracized, ignored and forgotten, without friends. It doesn’t threaten anybody else, but it provokes the conscience, suggesting there is an alternative method, that materialism is irrelevant and that austerity is good for the soul. Meanwhile, the native tribes, the Karen and the Shan for example, are still resisting the single-minded, uncompromising, old-order of the imperialistic military. And, although the principled and dignified democratic opposition, has either been locked-up, eliminated, or has fled the country, their leader refuses to leave. She remains confined, alone, not that far from the glistening Shwedagon Pagoda. Her Burmese days are long, but nobly and patiently, she is still awaiting."

Regardless of the above, following the situation in Burma can be a dispiriting experience, especially if you have a vested interest, or if you're hoping for a particular outcome. It is best to have absolutely no expectations, no preconceived ideas, and apply an unusual thinking, which if applied to any other country, would appear quite ridiculous. However, although some people may not like this or be totally unaware of it, there is a relevance to the historical context, the religious [Buddhist] principles, and the militaristic ideals; and none of these should be ignored or underestimated.

Thus, the nostalgic, romantic image of the country, has been painstakingly dismantled by men in uniforms, determined to manufacture their own legend. The old, colonial dream was simply that: a dream - an illusion beyond reality. How the Thakhin must have hated it.

So the election, the first for twenty years, has finally taken place. The world seems to be totally underwhelmed by this, and nobody seems to think it will make any difference. I'm reminded that in the past, the Tatmadaw [armed forces] often indicated they were following the method of democratization pursued by Indonesia. President Suharto moved from being a military leader to being a quasi-democratic leader, and eventually he found that he was accepted by the international community - Than Shwe probably expects the same.
Somewhat surprisingly, Aung San Suu Kyi was released from house arrest - thank goodness - and whilst everybody is still trying to figure out the implications, the greater game is being played out elsewhere - unreported. We should not be too surprised that the first thing on the 'western' politicians' agenda was the economic sanctions - many other countries are at the moment as bankrupt as Burma, and they are equally desperate for new opportunities; they may also be legitimately seeking to reduce Burma's dependency on China. But again I'm reminded of something from more recent history. One of the main reasons Burma was recruited as a member of ASEAN, was because it was thought [by some more than others] that positive, economic engagement would lead to political change. It did; "backwoodsman" Than Shwe, tightened his grip on power - not what anybody expected, or wanted.
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Burma: Look to the Stars [posted 19/11/10]

In Burma, the astrologers must be extremely busy at the moment. Between clients, as they study their charts and their reference books of the constellations, they may have time to be slightly amused by those amateurs who attempt to analyse and predict the actions of the people in charge. Than Shwe, like Ne Win before him, pays heed to his astrologer - nobody else has such influence.

If anybody really wants to know what's going to happen next in Burma, ask an astrologer!
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Burma and the Philippines: Countries Apart [posted 5/10/11]

“…. The strategic importance of the nation, sandwiched between the two, giant Asian countries….,” from ‘The Forgotten Land’.


“….. The country enjoyed all the socializing and the partying which went with these new freedoms – it was sociable by nature, and fiestas were a way of life….,” from ‘The Islands at the Edge’.

It was perhaps unfortunate that at the end of the colonial period, certain people predicted that Burma and the Philippines would be the two countries in Southeast Asia best placed to take advantage of their independence. Both showed a total disregard for this forecast and instead chose to head off into the international wilderness, although, somewhat surprisingly, they joined the regional grouping, ASEAN.

The two countries have been beset by seemingly insurmountable problems, and not simply the political and social ones they inherited with their autonomy. They’ve had bitter, long-running armed conflicts with insurgent groups, and it can’t be ignored that the military has played a pivotal role in each country. However, in the Philippines, during the “people power” revolution of 1985, which toppled President Marcos, they stood aside. Alas, the same did not happen in Burma, with the military forcibly putting down the anti-government protests in 1988 – but in Burma of course, the military was then, and still is, the government: or is it?

Regardless, during my visits to these countries – I haven’t been to Burma for some time – I recognized something unique about them. And, although they each have an elusiveness – a mystique which makes them difficult to analyse – plus the fact that they are each so completely different from anywhere else in the region, I’m now fairly sure that the prediction concerning their future will come true. The shoots of new growth are already visible in the Philippines.

However, if you are unconvinced, don’t worry, many others are too – they think the countries are destined to be in turmoil for eternity, and they think my optimism is quite idiosyncratic. But in a way, in that one word lies part of the explanation, because, the thing Burma and the Philippines have in common, is that they are quite idiosyncratic – but if they are able to harness this fascinating characteristic, they will ultimately succeed.
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The opening quotations are taken from the ‘Unreliable Country Profiles’ section, of my book ‘Territory of Uncertainty’.
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Burma: a Prophecy Fulfilled? [posted 29/3/12]

It seems as if everybody is going to Burma. Recently, friends of mine visited the country, and there has been a veritable deluge of reports from regional based journalists, and a succession of high-ranking diplomats from far-and-wide have been to see for themselves the changes taking place – even the British Foreign Secretary. I have not been – not since 1995 – I’ve resisted the temptation, although I fully understand people’s curiosity; perhaps I’ll wait until the dust has settled, and the enthusiasm waned.

One thing I can verify: from a reliable source; I believe it was difficult to find any reasonably priced accommodation in Rangoon in February – it was a sellers market: more visitors than hotel beds. How things have changed. Obviously, gone are the days when you could get a room at the almost deserted Strand Hotel for USD 12.

So yes, I’m still calling the country Burma, and perhaps if the authorities were to do the same thing, it would be indicative of the progress of the new regime. Those with long memories will remember Kampuchea reverting to the more internationally recognizable name: Cambodia. By contrast, the new flag seems to have been almost universally accepted – at least it contains a star; I expect the astrologers were consulted concerning the design.

From afar, it appears as though the new leader, Thain Sain, does deserve some credit, and encouragement, not least for distancing the country from monopolistic, neo-colonialist China, and opening the doors for [almost] anybody and everybody – even some political prisoners. It should be appreciated that there are implicit dangers in this policy – there is still a possibility that there could be a counter-coup from the old guard. It may well be that Than Shwe has retired to China, but apparently, he still has loyal friends in positions of power.

I’m not sure what to make of Aung San Suu Kyi entering the political system and becoming an MP – presuming she is elected: we’ve been here before. Does this new responsibility compromise her principled position, and how will she handle the burden of expectancy? She may find that the optimism of the impatient, turns to frustration, and ultimately, disillusion – politics was ever thus, especially in the developing world; but it should be acknowledged that it is impossible to move directly from 1962 to 2012, without experiencing some time-travel jet-lag.

Inevitably, some regional countries are uncertain about the changes being made – as are the many displaced Burmese people abroad; the status quo has been disturbed: old alliances have been superseded; talk of pragmatism and progress is troubling and confusing. Now, Burma has to be viewed as a competitor nation; competing, if in a reserved way, for attention and investment opportunities. Disappointingly, there is already something resembling a modern-day gold-rush taking place – a scramble to be in at the beginning; but we’ve seen it all before – the suave, duplicitous carpetbaggers; and thankfully, so have the Burmese: it was written in the stars.
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Burma: Remembering Palm Sunday [posted 2/4/12]

Burma is thought of as being a mostly Buddhist country, because of this, it may have gone largely unnoticed that the by-election which should see Aung San Suu Khi elected as an MP, is taking place on Palm Sunday. The fact that this day is also April 1st, All Fool’s Day, may not necessarily be a coincidence – you don’t need to be an astrologer, or a comedian, to understand the implications: over time, the Burmese people have learnt to analyze such things, to look for the hidden messages.

I may be trying to make something out of nothing here – yes, not for the first time – but in a way, there is something astonishingly profound concerning the fact that the election should be held on Palm Sunday. And, although it is fanciful, let’s just consider, if only fleetingly, that the authorities were fully aware of this fact, and that they thought it would be a perfect day for the “lady” to be elected.

I suppose we should remember what happened at the start of Holy Week, and perhaps then consider how it ended; politics is hardly the best place for Bible Class – but relish the implications:
It is almost impossible to imagine the scene, and what the atmosphere was like, when Jesus entered Jerusalem two thousand years ago. However, some of the euphoria which has greeted Aung San Suu Khi on her election campaign perhaps mirrors the type of enthralled, universal adoration we are told Jesus received. Further, the recognition of someone righteous – someone extraordinary, from a higher plane; in a world of despised, corrupt authority, and the optimism encouraged by the belief that this person can bring about change for the good, would suggest that there is something much more precious than simply politics at stake: this is a quest for the hearts, minds and souls of the people, and undeniably, it has far reaching implications; this is a modern-day legend we are witnessing.

Of course, we all know that Jesus was betrayed for thirty pieces of silver; can we be certain today, that Aung San Suu Khi will not be similarly betrayed? Perish the thought. And yet, are the knives already being sharpened – how was it that within the week, people preferred Barabbas to Jesus? When faced with purity beyond explanation, people become afraid and doubt their own ability to meet the expectations of the trust placed in them; repeatedly, throughout history, people have sacrificed worthy leaders for inferior, but ruthless street-fighters.

Perhaps I’m being foolish here – symptomatic of the day; to naively believe that a single person can change the destiny of a nation? Well, it’s been done before, and there is a possibility that despite everything, it can be done again; and not only that, it is to be hoped her example can inspire a more widespread movement for political change. Her father, seen as a martyr, had his opportunity blown away – murdered in a violent flash; her own ascension is not guaranteed; time is not on her side, nor is precedent, but at least for now, the public flagellation is over.
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A Solemn, Fragmented Image

I never met Felix Miro, and I don’t know the two people in the photograph, sat by his grave. What I do know is that the picture was taken on All Soul's Day, at Careta Cemetery in Cebu City, in the Philippines. If I’m not mistaken, it was in1991.

I can see that the shot is far from perfect: the angle, the light, and the general composition is clumsy; but regardless of this, it has something about it – something compelling and troubling: solemn; a brooding atmosphere.

It was taken late in the day – perhaps 5 pm; the sun is setting in the distance – it sets early so far east in November; consequently, the photo is back-lit and the two figures are darker than they would otherwise be; they seem to be a long way from the other people attending the other graves, and they appear untroubled to see me with my camera. Who are they and why are they there? Who was Felix?
There is a generation conundrum – surely, the lady is too old to be the mother of the child…., so, is she his grandmother? Was Felix her son and the boy’s father? It is impossible to know – speculation is futile; and any conclusion may be totally wrong. Perhaps she is the boy’s mother, and the grave is that of her husband – it’s not impossible.

The parched grass and the smoke add to the eerie feel of the image, and I particularly like the impression created by the young women with the bucket over her shoulder, walking out of the photo – where is she going, and why has she got the bucket?

Whatever, the photograph is merely a fragmented image, and a lot has happened in the twenty years since I took it; sadly, people I once knew are now occupants of this cemetery, but I never met Felix Miro – I wish I had.